Wildlife of S. E. Asia and S. America. A Photo Journal by Francis Burlingham.: 2018

Introduction

Over the last few years I have been lucky enough to live in Thailand, China, Malaysia, Vietnam, Colombia and now Brunei. In my spare time I have had the opportunity to travel fairly widely, camera in hand, in search of wildlife. In these posts I aim to share some of these experiences and show you some of the extraordinary wildlife that can be found in these regions. All of the photographs you see within the posts and pages here are my own unless otherwise stated. Copyright © Francis Burlingham 2015

Tuesday 1 May 2018

Dry Season in Cat Tien National Park Vietnam

During the Tet holiday in February, I spent five days in Cat Tien National Park in the South of Vietnam. This was pretty much at the height of the dry season. The river levels were low and many streams completely dry in the forest. There was still plenty of water at Bau Sau however.

Bau Sau (Crocodile lake) and trail.

Bau Sau

Walking through the forest to Bau Sau was the highlight of the trip for me. The trail to the lake is an easy walk, taking a couple of hours going at a leisurely pace. Near the head of the trail, I was excited to spot the endangered black shanked douc. I managed to get a couple of photos from range of this beautiful primate. The population in the park in 2005, was estimated to be no more than 109 individuals and the species is on the IUCN red list. I also sighted and heard gibbons but was unable to photograph them at this point.

Pygathrix nigripes (Black shanke douc) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

Pygathrix nigripes (Black shanke douc) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

The Giant Tung tree half way along the trail was an impressive site and worth a photo.

Tetrameles nudiflora (Giant Tung Tree)

Along the trail to the lake I also encountered this large species of gliding lizard Draco indochinensis.

Draco indochinensis (Indochinese flying lizard ) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

The crocodile lake itself was spectacular and I pretty much had the place to myself. I initially thought that it might be hard to spot the wild Siamese crocodiles. I needn’t have worried, there were plenty to see swimming in the water. These freshwater crocodiles were re-introduced in 2000 and there is now a thriving population.

Bau Sau

I got some great shots of this juvenile crocodile basking on the shore and gaping to loose heat.

Crocodylus siamensis (Siamese crocodile) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

Crocodylus siamensis (Siamese crocodile) Cat Tien NP Vietnam. Another juvenile in the water in the background.

I got a little too close in my eagerness to get a good shot and did not notice the large 3 meter long mother hiding under the water. She leapt out towards me with a loud splash to warn me off. Fortunately she did not chase me onto land, nonetheless it was a heart stopping moment.

Angry mother just after giving me a warning

The mothers of this species are known to aggressively defend their young.

Another adult patrolling the lake.

Porphyrio indicus (The black-backed swamphen) Bau Sau Cat Tien NP Vietnam

The national park headquarters and the main trails.

There were a few almost dry waterholes near the main trail through the national park. From the numerous tracks in the mud they had clearly attracted several animals overnight in search of a drink. I could identify wild boar tracks and these paw prints that probably belong to a small carnivore, though which type I could not say.

Carnivore tracks

There were several animal droppings in the water hole, some full of seeds. These along with the wet mud attracted several butterflies keen to suck up extra nutrients and mineral salts.

Graphium agamemnon (Tailed Jay) feeding on animal droppings Cat Tien NP Vietnam

The main trails from the park headquarters are great to explore by bike and provide good opportunities for spotting small reptiles, birds and insects.

Rhabdophis subminiatus (Red necked keelback) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

This beautiful but venomous snake crossed the path in front of my mountain bike before taking a good look at me from the cover of the leaf litter.

Penthema darlisa annamitica (Blue Kaiser) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

I found this striking butterfly feasting on carrion on the trail past the botanical garden area.

Euploea mulcibar (Striped Blue Crow) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

Calotes bachae Cat Tien Vietnam

This striking lizard camouflages itself perfectly with dull mottled brown colours. However, when displaying to attract a mate or fight off rivals its head and upper body parts flush a deep vivid neon blue. This species is endemic to Cat Tien NP and southern Vietnam and is fairly easy to spot when it is displaying on a tree trunk near the trails.

Pseudophyllus titan (Giant False Leaf Katydid) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

This huge bug was almost as big as my daughters hand.

The Grassland.

Grassland at the edge of Cat Tien NP Vietnam.

The grassland area on the edge of the park has a viewing tower from which it is occasionally possible to spot large mammals and grassland birds. Unfortunately, I did not see much here apart from a martin that slunk off before I could shoot it and a few long tailed macaques in the orchards nearby. However, I did see several lovely red jungle fowl.

Gallus gallus (red junglefowl) Male Cat Tien NP Vietnam

This species is the ancestor of the modern farm chicken.

Gallus gallus (red junglefowl) Female Cat Tien NP Vietnam

The Ben Cu Rapids

Ben Cu Rapids Looking Upstream

Ben Cu Rapids Looking Downstream

The Ben Cu rapids are nice to explore. The water level was relatively low when I visited but the rapids were impressive none the less. There were many tracks on the bank which I think may have been left by otters.

Otter Tracks

Otter Track close up

A number of different butterflies were puddling on the damp sand at the riverbank.

Graphium antiphates pompilus (Fivebar Swordtail) and Graphium aristeus (Chain Swordtail) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

Euploea mulcibar (Striped Blue Crow) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

Pachliopta aristolochiae (Common Rose) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

Forest Floor Lodge overlooking the rapids was a great place to have lunch and watch the blue-winged leafbirds in the trees near the balcony overlooking the rapids.

Chloropsis cochinchinensis (Blue-winged Leafbird ) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

The Primate Centre

A visit to the primate centre within the park was a very worthwhile way to end my time in Cat Tien. The centre rehabilitates primates rescued from the illegal wildlife and pet trade, with the aim of release them back into the park wherever possible. The money from tourists that visit the centre is used to carry out this work. I took these shots of a pair of young male yellow-cheeked gibbons in an open enclosure used to prepare the gibbons for release.

Nomascus gabriellae (yellow-cheeked gibbon) Cat Tien NP Vietnam

Overall, I found Cat Tien National Park a great place to visit and to spot wildlife. I am now looking forward to returning in the wet season.

Monday 30 April 2018

The Wildlife of Ho Chi Minh City

Saigon compared with other SE Asian cities is not a very green city. There are however, a few parks and other green spaces, particularly along the numerous waterways, where a surprisingly diverse range of wildlife manages to cling on.

District 7 is about as green as it gets and the parks outside of Crescent Mall offer some good opportunities to spot wildlife if you know what you are looking for.

Most of the following photographs were taken in the area near the mall.

Psittacula alexandri (red-breasted parakeet) HCMC Vietnam

Flocks of Psittacula alexandri (red-breasted parakeet) can be seen flying around the trees in this area squwaking noisily as they move from tree to tree. I took these shots just outside of my condominium.

Psittacula alexandri (red-breasted parakeet) HCMC Vietnam

Halcyon chloris (White Collared Kingfisher) can also regularly be seen patrolling the park and crescent lake area.

Halcyon chloris (White Collared Kingfisher) HCMC Vietnam

Three species of lizard can be easily found in the park. The most eye catching of these is the beautiful Calotes bachae. This blue headed lizard has only recently been confirmed as a distinct species endemic to southern Vietnam. More about this discovery here. The blue colour is present in both males and females in the breeding season and is used for display. The lizard is capable of changing colour rapidly. At night or when not displaying it changes to a dull mottled brown to hide on tree branches.

Calotes bachae HCMC Vietnam

Calotes bachae Ho Tram Vietnam

Calotes bachae HCMC Vietnam

Calotes versicolor (Garden Fence Lizard) is a common lizard found across tropical Asia. It can be distinguished from C. bachae by the less mottled colouration and the fact that its head changes to an orange rather than blue colour when it displays.

Calotes versicolor HCMC Vietnam

Takydromus sexlineatus (long-tailed grass lizard) is a small species with a disproportionately long tail that can be found hunting for insects in the small shrubs around the park at crescent mall. These lovely little lizards are sometimes sold as pets in local pet shops.

Takydromus sexlineatus (long-tailed grass lizard) HCMC Vietnam

There are also a number of snakes that can be found in the city. I have seen Chrysopelea ornata (Golden Tree Snake) in HCMC, although I have yet to photograph it here. I took the following shot a few years back in Thailand.

Chrysopelea ornata (Golden Tree Snake) Kho Chang Thailand

I have also seen Ptyas korros (Indo-Chinese Rat Snake) in district 7. This beautiful rat snake crossed the path in front of me and dived into cover near a pond, then poked its head out to check if I was following, before disappearing off into the undergrowth.

Ptyas korros (Indo-Chinese Rat Snake) HCMC Vietnam

Interesting insects sometimes get caught up in the cities lighting. I picked up this dazed and confused Pseudophyllus titan (Giant False Leaf Katydid) near our condo. It was pretty big, longer than my finger!

Pseudophyllus titan (Giant False Leaf Katydid) HCMC Vietnam

Wherever there are lantana bushes in the tropics, you can be sure to come across a variety of butterflies and HCMC is no exception. These photos were all taken in District 7.