Introduction

Over the last few years I have been lucky enough to live in Thailand, China, Malaysia, Vietnam, Colombia and now Brunei. In my spare time I have had the opportunity to travel fairly widely, camera in hand, in search of wildlife. In these posts I aim to share some of these experiences and show you some of the extraordinary wildlife that can be found in these regions. All of the photographs you see within the posts and pages here are my own unless otherwise stated. Copyright © Francis Burlingham 2015

Monday, 27 February 2023

The Rio Negro, Cundinamarca, Colombia

 Last weekend I travelled with my family to Tobia to explore the Rio Negro area, staying overnight at the Rio Negro Eco Lodge. The surrounding area is a beautiful Andean landscape with steep sided, partially forested mountains either side of the river. 

Rio Negro

My favourite part of this trip was a visit to the Parque Ecologico La Salina. Between Tobia and Nimaima, a sharp left turn takes you down a road now only passable by 4WD vehicles. Due to its inaccessibility, we had the place practically to ourselves when we visited on the Sunday. It is a place where the two branches of the Rio Negro meet and is a particularly lovely spot to explore. The views on the way down to the park were also spectacular. I was particularly glad to have the jeep on this occasion to be able to experience this. 

The Rio Negro at Las Salina EcoPark

This park area was full of numerous brightly coloured butterflies. I saw more Morpho butterflies here than anywhere else I have visited in Colombia. As usual they were incredibly hard to photograph as they rarely settle. When they do they open their wings only briefly to reveal the gorgeous blue colour hidden within. After many attempts however I succeeded in getting these shots, on the road on the way back up from the park.

Morpho helenor peleides        Rio Negro, Cundinamarca, Colombia

Morpho helenor peleides 
 Rio Negro, Cundinamarca, Colombia
Morpho helenor peleides       Rio Negro, Cundinamarca. Colombia
Morpho helenor peleides Rio Negro, Cundinamarca, Colombia

Continuing with the shiny blue theme this Postman butterfly was either black or blue depending on the viewing angle.

Heliconius melpomene (Postman Butterfly) Rio Negro Colombia

This female Androgeus swallowtail butterfly was laying eggs on the leaves of a tree. It had a lovely turquoise irridesence on its hindwings. It was, however, difficult to get a shot of as it refused to settle for long or come down from the tree.

Papilio androgeus female 
Rio Negro, Colombia

The banks of the river consisted of boulders and black sand. This damp sand attracted many butterflies which came to drink minerals. The black sand provided a wonderful contrast to their vibrant colours.  This was particularly the case with these two bright orange species.

Marpesia petreus (Ruddy Daggerwing) Rio Negro, Colombia

Dryas iulia (Julia Butterfly) Rio Negro, Colombia

I was particularly pleased to photograph this Kite Swordtail for the first time. There were three individuals puddling on the bank of the river.

Protesilaus molops (left) and Protesilaus protesilaus (right)  (Kite Swordtails) Rio Negro Colombia

Protesilaus protesilaus  (Kite Swordtail) Rio Negro Colombia

In this last shot you can see the butterfly excreting the water it has extracted minerals from.

Protesilaus protesilaus  (Kite Swordtail) Rio Negro Colombia

Hamadryas (butterfly) This is an interesting species as it can make a click sound with its wings.

Hamadryas amphinome (The Red Cracker) Rio Negro, Colombia

Away from the river in the forest and grassy areas there were many other butterflies including this Queen butterfly.

Danaus gilippus female (Queen butterfly) Rio Negro Colombia

Danaus gilippus male (Queen butterfly) Rio Negro Colombia

Although I didn’t see many reptiles on this visit there were still plenty of geckos about in the trees. 

      Gonatodes albogularis  Rio Negro, Colombia

The area around the river and the ecolodge is rich in bird life. Outside our room at the ecolodge a family of parrotlets had made a nest in a hollow piece of bamboo used in the construction of the building. They were relatively unconcerned by our presence and were very entertaining as they hung upside down at the entrance of the nest. My daughter got some nice shots of these entertaining birds.

Forpus conspicillatus pair (The spectacled parrotlet) Rio Negro, Colombia by H. Burlingam

Forpus conspicillatus male (The spectacled parrotlet) Rio Negro, Colombia

Forpus conspicillatus male
Forpus conspicillatus male by H. Burlingham

There were also numerous butterflies in the area around the river. I was pleased to find and photograph one of the iconic butterflies of the region; the 88 Butterfly. This was in the grounds of the lodge settled on the road. The red and cream underside contrasted beautifully with the iridescent blue of the upper side when occasionally revealed. Another species of 88 had a bright red upper side. 

Diaethria clymena (Cramer's or neglected 88 Butterfly) Rio Negro, Colombia

Callicore cynosura (Cynosaura 88 Butterfly)  Rio Negro, Colombia by H. Burlingham

This Giant Blue Hairstreak butterfly, also in the grounds of the lodge had a bright sky blue upper side only revealed in flight.

Pseudolycaena marsyas
Giant Hairstreak Butterfly

Butterflies often congregate near dirty water by settlements where they suck minerals from the water.  I found this Polydamus swallowtail, doing this on the side of the road near the river.

Papilio (Battus) polydamus
Rio Negro, Colombia

The weekend before I had also explored the Tobia area including the Escobo waterfall.  These pretty falls are easily reached by a 15 min walk from a car park.

Cascada Escobo, Cundinamarca, Colombia

At the Escobo falls I found this small red bottomed tarantula.

Unidentified Tarantula species  Cascada Escobo, Colombia

These Red Mountain flowers were growing on the steep banks by the roadsides in the Rio negro area.

Kohleria sps  Rio Negro Colombia

Kohleria sps  Rio Negro Colombia

Getting out from Bogota to this area takes about two and a half hours. The area can be reached via narrow winding mountain roads from the small Andean Pueblos of Nimaima and Nocaima for the best scenery and views. It is well worth it and I am sure that I will be back before I leave Colombia.

Las Salina Eco Park Rio Negro Colombia
With my trusty Jeep at the Eco Park